At the end of day six, with just one and a half more days left of New York fashion week, we’re looking at more of the key stand-out shows we’ve seen over days five and six…
The runway at Vera Wang – from the woman famous for evening and bridal wear – was all about dark romanticism and Gothic glamour for AW14-15; centered around jewel-encrusted insect brooches, and slogan “You Bug Me” and insect graphic tees. The (still predominantly evening wear) collection featured tartan, mainly; in a mixture of light chiffon and heavy wool, to create layered, textured looks that dipped into the non-waning trend for sheer. Wang said she was trying to create the “tension of when a boy meets girl”, which is seen in the toughness of the collection. Most of the looks included leather elbow length gloves, whereas the high-impact, sheer, flowing and ruffled evening gowns were sensual, and the dark water-colour floral gowns, feminine; both needing little accessorising other that the sky-high heeled boots and sock combo on every model.
Tuesday saw Jenny Packham show at Washington Street, and what she presented could only be described as pure 70’s glamour heading down that runway. The mix of flowing evening gowns and jumpsuits were inspired by Bianca Jagger, said Packham, and the feminine, glamorous aesthetic of the collection reflected Jagger’s personality and presence. Packham combined her usual lady-like silhouettes with tailoring this year; sharp blazers over classic pencil skirts and sleek wide-leg trousers, in an array of silky satins in bright colours; a mix of rosy and raspberry pinks, royal navy, burgundy and caramels. Her intricate waterfall beading was seen on jumpsuits and dresses, while glittering tulle skirts and feather detailing on bags added to the 70’s allure.
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Despite showing in New York, this year’s Marc By Marc Jacobs show was the amalgamation of a British Duo; Katie Hillier as Creative Director and Luella Bartley as Head designer, in an attempt to bring back the label to its former glory. The diffusion line of Marc Jacobs label, was once at the forefront of amusing, accessible designs, at a lower price point for young women, but since 2008 it had strayed from this, and lost it’s identity. Luella (who’s young, fresh designs we love) and Katie, managed to create a sort of motor-cross show, mixed with Japanese cartoon humour in the way of biking slogans reading ‘Revolution’ and ‘Bunny Hop’, and ninja-like models wearing bandannas across their faces, and BMX moonboots. The result was a street ready collection. Polo neck t-shirts completed most looks, and a cinched in waist with that distinctive leather belt, kept a level of sophistication and femininity, before the collection became too far-fetched. Grey and black were the basis, but red and blue in go-faster stripes adorned most pieces; adding the cool, kitsch and cartoon like feel; the feel that is most apparent on the iconic and press-worthy ‘Bunny Hop’ silver metallic dress (pictured above).
Those Star Wars printed dresses were all everyone could talk about with Rodarte; that and the memorable fairy-tale metallic lip and soft smokey eyes by Nars. The collection was distinctly nostalgic; Star Wars inspired prints on Grecian, toga style maxi dresses and soft pastel pinks and purples used throughout the clothing and makeup. But despite this; the metallic hues and glittery over-sized coats added a celestial touch, and dreamy metallic lips helped meld the past and future perfectly. The combination of statement pieces, the Yoda printed dresses and cute berets appealed to the couldn’t care less attitude of so many fashionistas, hinting to a renaissance of the ‘geek chic’ trend we saw appear not so many years ago.