Last night in Milan, American designer Jeremy Scott debuted his first collection for cult label Moschino, after being appointed Creative Director in October. And what a stir the collection caused? The designer, renowned for his typically motif-laden and pop culture inspired designs, brought his personality and a bit of the US to the Italian brand; yet still incorporated it with the classic ‘blingy’ nature of the Moschino we all know and love. Firstly, the show started late, 45 minutes late, due to two in particular stars who had been flown in from London to see the show. Rita Ora and Katy Perry, after partying at the previous night’s Brit Awards, arrived showcasing pieces from their friend’s AW14 collection, and took to their front row seats via the catwalk – a little preview perhaps?
McDonalds and the cartoon Spongebob Squarepants were the focus, possibly encompassing America more than anything else on this planet. Scott used the brazen red and yellow colour combination, combined with a take on the McDonalds ‘golden arches’ to play on the Moschino logo, and placed it on bags (one even shaped like a take-away cup from the fast-food chain), sweatshirts, shoes and a visor. Models walked down the runway in otherwise sophisticated outfits, Chanel-style jackets, shirt dress and belted robes, if it weren’t for the McDonalds link, of course.
But then came the bit of Moschino we were expecting (sort of). The chunky, gold block lettering, hardening up denim and leather in an array of skin tight mini dresses, Bomber jackets and hotpants. It was more risque than we’ve seen before, an ode to the street-style culture we’ve seen appearing in ‘real life’ and on major catwalks over the last few seasons; but no quicker than we could reminisce or contemplate the street-wear we were seeing before us, out came Spongebob. Less subtle than the McDonalds tribute (well slightly), the yellow character’s unmistakable face was emblazoned on t shirts, dresses and bags, and was accompanied by huge black on yellow polka dot designs. The finale showed ball gowns in prints of – again classic American – snacks, such as cheese biscuits chocolate milk and Poptarts. But a wedding dress, largely printed in nutritional information tables came last, followed by the designer himself, who wore a t-shirt with the words “I Don;t speak Italian but I do speak Moschino”.
So what do you think, cheap or chic? Whichever you decide, there’s no doubting that this is a collection that will be remembered for a long time, and will surely be the focus of many a high-street replica come next season (those Mcdonalds chips phone cases especially…). So does the fact that it can be copied cheapen the brand, or simply reinforce it’s cult status worldwide? In the case of Moschino, its never positioned itself as a completely exclusive label, just a cool one. So we’re inclined to go with the later.